day thirty-eight: bandwagon brew pub

The Bandwagon Brew Pub is more of a Bandwagon Brew Cave. Stepping down into the lower level of 114 N. Cayuga, one can almost feel the cool earthiness of the beer that’s brewed on the premises. The walls are hewn from a rustic stone and the bar area has a hidden grotto of sorts behind it. In my robust fantasy world, hipster gnomes–the ones too cool to wear those lame pointy hats, the ones who trim, dye or otherwise style their gnome beards–work behind the walls of the grotto, where they diligently, happily, and drunkenly brew the Bandwagon beer.

My robust fantasy world does not, of course, give enough credit to the tremendous amount of work it takes to make the 20 or so different microbrews that Bandwagon brews, 5 or so of which are on tap at any given point in time. This, in itself, is ambitious. In addition, Bandwagon has an eclectic sampling of other upstate New York and American craft beers, a full bar, and a diverse menu as well. For those of you who, like me when I first moved to Ithaca, think that 10pm is a totally reasonable time to sit down for dinner, no longer need you settle only for late-night pizza and Collegetown takeout: Bandwagon offers a decent selection of their menu items through last call.

I had jumped on the Bandwagon a few times when they first opened and, while my meals were solid and fresh, they had been nothing tremendously special. Judging from this last trip though, wow, Bandwagon has done some serious ramping up of its operations. I was having trouble deciding between the dinner entrees, which ranged from the elegant-sounding grilled chermoula wild sockeye salmon to two funky farfalle, one with a mix of citrus fruits, onion, and habanero, the other with zucchini, tomato, sweet bell peppers, and sorrel in white wine sauce. I felt that from the diverse menu, one choice was hardly enough, and so instead decided to mix it up with two orders from the “sides & snacks” section instead.

The “sides & snacks” section was equally appealing and featured higher-end versions of all kinds of bar food. The egg rolls came with BBQ pork and smoked gouda; the cheesesticks were made with Pepper Jack rather than the standard mozzarella; the hand-cut fries served with malt vinegar aioli and curry mayonnaise. I ordered Bandwagon’s twist on potato skins–potato and cheddar wontons with chive sour cream–and the one vegan starter, spicy coconut thai curry with potato, broccoli, carrot, shitake, cremini mushrooms and jasmine rice. (Full disclosure: They had, for $3 more, the option to add chicken to the dish. I couldn’t resist.)

While trying to decide on menu items/catching up at great length with my friend, I sampled a few of the Bandwagon brews. My first choice, Bandwagon’s Heavyweight Rye Double IPA, was not a good one. The rye hit strong at first, then slowly faded into a nagging aftertaste of dried blood. The persistent taste of iron made finishing the pint feel like some sort of vampire initiation ritual. To offset this initial choice, I switched, on my second round, to the Southern Tier Hop Sun, which I enjoyed immensely, then back to another of the Bandwagon brews, the I Town Brown, to give the in-house brews another shot. The I Town Brown was solidly drinkable, a pretty standard brown ale. I finished the night with one of my perennial favorites, the Lagunitas Pale Ale from California. Were it that you wanted to try an equally diverse selection of beers without staying at Bandwagon for hours and hours on end, you could go for one of the featured beer flights for a mere $8. That said, if you are like me and have good company, pints do the job just fine, too.

I was shocked at the size of the appetizers when they arrived. (Also thankful, considering the amount of beer I had consumed.) Together, they would certainly be more than enough for a meal. The wontons looked amazing: A perfect golden color, no sign of burning or chewiness whatsoever. I bit in and found that they were the perfect temperature inside as well, hot enough to be enjoyed, but not scalding. They tasted like fried pierogies with a thicker, crunchier, ever-so-slightly sweeter wrapper. I heartily dipped them into the sour cream chive dip which I completely enjoyed, despite even my long-standed and well-known dislike of plain sour cream. This dip was thick and had just the right amount of tang. My only note is that it could have used a pinch more salt to really bring out the flavors. Likewise, a bit more seasoning (garlic? onions? spice? something?) in the wontons and they would be sheer perfection.

After finishing the wontons, I took to the coconut curry which was sized not so much as a side or snack as a full entree. The consistency of this dish was absolutely perfect: The rice had a risotto-like creaminess to it without being overcooked. The dish had a rounded heat throughout it and just a hint of sweetness. It tasted like a Thai curry/American fusion in all of the best of ways. I gave a chicken-less bite to my vegetarian friend, an equally (if not more) candid reviewer of food, and she seconded my thumbs up opinion.

It’s not only the beer and food at Bandwagon that gives the place its local flavor. As I’ve generally found to be the case here, the service was regular and friendly, if sometimes bordering on the over-eager. We never once felt ignored nor needed for anything and, with our check, our waitress gave us a card for her Etsy shop, where she sells hand-painted shoes. Like the Ithaca aesthetic spectrum, which ranges from shabby hippie to stodgy professor, Bandwagon balances the DIY with the learned for many interesting and some wonderful results.

Price: Upscale pub price ($12-$20)
Hours: 5pm – 1am, 7 days a week,
Location: 114 N. Cayuga Street
Website: Bandwagon Brew Pub

day thirty-four: manndible

Every so often I eat a thing so often that there comes a point after which I can never conceive of eating it again. I thought I had, alas, reached a sad day and hit this point with Manndible’s burritos. Then, last week, I tried, for the first time, one of Manndible’s breakfast burritos. Body by Burrito (TM)* was back in action.

Manndible Cafe is located in the Mann Library on Cornell’s Ag Quad and features the freshest local food you’ll find on campus. Manndible is just yet another way in which Mann Library is totally pimped out in comparison to dowdy ‘ol Olin, whose cafe features perhaps the most pathetic name ever given to a coffee shop in an institution of higher learning, the “Libe” Cafe. Seriously? Also, whereas the Libe Cafe’s repertoire of food is limited to grab-and-go sandwiches, muffins, and Ithaca Coffee Roasters coffee, Manndible, in comparison, has a variety of made-to-order wraps, burritos, soups, salads, hot breakfast items, and desserts plus fresh juices and a full espresso bar with Gimme! coffee.

While Manndible has both beef and chicken options for burritos, I often prefer their vegetarian and/or vegan options. The vegan tofu mix is rich, spicy and has the crumbly consistency of ground hamburger, but silkier. Ordering a burrito at Manndible couldn’t be a more streamlined process: Upon entering the cafe, walk to the burrito bar and fill out a slip with your choice of container, filling, and toppings, then go pay at the counter while your burrito is expertly rolled.

Of the toppings, I enjoy the sweet hot sauce the most: It’s perky and pops through any number of toppings with which your burrito might be smothered. Manndible’s guacamole is also fresh and chunky, and available for . The one ingredient which tends to vary in quality is the rice — I’ve had this before be either incredibly under- or overcooked so now to avoid it and focus on the filling and veggies. Get your burritos with the sweet hot sauce and fresh jalapenos for an extra-spicy treat (but, if so, be warned to keep a roll of Tums on hand as well).

If you’re not feeling up for a whole burrito, Manndible also has something call the poquito which is basically burrito filling served in a cup with chips for dipping on the side. If you’re really hungry, a poquito might not be enough to fill you up, but it’s perfect for a light lunch snack or those looking to cut down on the carbs.

Manndible serves their breakfast options all day; until last week, I had never ventured to try any of these. This, I found out, was much to my detriment. The tofu scramble, a vegan version of their scrambled egg wrap, was incredible. The tofu was rich yet light, fluffy yet filling, and mixed with fresh salsa and peppers in a burrito wrapper. My Body by Burrito (TM) trainer ordered the scrambled eggs and avocado in a wrap, and her breakfast looked equally appealing as well.

Maybe the best thing about Manndible is that everything there can be enjoyed guilt-free. In addition to almost exclusively sourcing food from local providers, the cafe uses corn-based compostable flatware and containers and recycles and/or composts the overwhelming majority of its materials. The staff is super friendly, the walls are decorated with art from local artists, and the bulletin boards a good resource for would-be activists. Even the desserts and sweets feel healthy here: The vegan date bar and apricot cake slices are not to be missed.

Finally, if you can’t come to Manndible, Manndible can come to you. They have a catering service that delivers organic breakfasts, lunches and dinners to you. For Cornell conferences looking to keep their guests appropriately caffeinated through hours of grueling intellectual labor, Manndible can keep the Gimme! coffee flowing no matter what the time of day.

So, if you haven’t already done so, enjoy the Mann Library, with its exquisite climate control, high-resolution large-format printers, large study tables and private work rooms, and abundance of electrical outlets. And, while you’re there, enjoy Manndible, too. In the meantime, those of us on the Arts Quad will keep waiting for the time when Olin Library is remodeled and no longer resembles a towering inferno-style death trap.

* All rights reserved, copyright 2011, M.M. Dirks.

Price: Student-friendly (< $7)
Hours: Summer hours, 7:30am – 5pm, closed Sat – Sun
Recommended: Tofu scramble breakfast burrito, poquitos of various varieties
Location: 1st floor of Mann Library on Cornell's Ag Quad
Website: Manndible Cafe

day fifteen: the good truck

Eating in Ithaca over graduation weekend is a nightmare. If you don’t have a compelling reason to be out of town, and can’t help but feel compelled by the general good weather and good end-of-semester vibes to try, nonetheless, to venture out to eat, this post, I hope, will prove to be a good stealth recommendation. As of just three weeks ago, there exists a magical little food truck parked in a magical little alleyway at the bottom of the hill on Seneca Street, right before Seneca meets Aurora. This magical place is the realm of The Good Truck. And it is very, very good indeed.

Stepping into The Good Truck’s alleyway, nestled between The Shop and the hobby shop, is like stepping into a tiny slice of Portlandia. Young couples pulled up on bicycles, a woman slung a baby over her shoulder in a totally chic papoose, and a skinny tattooed hipster with bleached blond dreads watched, taco in hand, perched on a step stool. It was the best-looking and best-smelling alleyway in all of Ithaca, no doubt, at the moment.

We stepped up to the window which was, for my sake, less formidable than that of Louie’s Lunch truck, and peeked in. The Good Truck’s truck was petite, like me, and as cute as its proprietresses, one of whom took my order while the other diligently griddle-cooked handmade tortillas. The duo’s dynamic reminded me of that of their West Coast gourmet taco truck dopplegangers, Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger, of Top Chef Masters, Border Grill Truck and “Too Hot Tamales” fame.

The dynamic Good Truck duo

I looked down at the menu. Everything was $5. There were 9 items. I wanted to try everything. Instead, I settled on one meat taco, The Heist, and one vegetarian taco, The Local. (The Local, I heard from the people ahead of us in line, could even be made vegan…just hold the saute butter.) My partner, for the sake of variety and my personal delight, ordered two totally different tacos, The El Camino (yes, that that is not a typo) and The Thriller. Other menu items include The Otis (smoked BBQ tofu taco), vegetarian tortas and quesadillas, a pepitas salad with avocado, and, for dessert, a strawberry rhubarb torte.

El Menu

We perched ourselves atop two of the motley folding chairs scattered along the side of the alleyway and proceeded to feign as if we were very, very cool. A small truck soon pulled into the alleyway, forced us to move aside, and temporarily interrupted our short, cool reverie. The tacos were ready; we forgot all about being cool. It was time to eat.

The tacos and their masa harina-based corn tortilla wrappers arrived hot and fresh off the griddle. Each taco came with a choice of rhubarb salsa or roasted red salsa, so I chose one of each. All four of our tacos were topped with a zingy cabbage cole slaw and so looked incredibly similar, but couldn’t have tasted more different. Each had a unique flavor and character and, though I absolutely loved the taste of the cole slaw, will next time ask for less of it or have it served on the side so as to better appreciate the character of each taco.

I wouldn’t describe any of the tacos as Mexican food, Tex-Mex, or even Cali-Mex, per se, so much as Ithaca-Mex. The ingredients The Good Truck uses are mainly local and organic and result in some non-traditional tacos. I was absolutely delighted by The Local, which had seasoned radish, asparagus and ramps all sauteed together in butter. The textures were surprisingly fun and I enjoyed biting into a buttery rod of asparagus in the middle of the hot radish and cold coleslaw crunch. The ramps added a subtle, rounded, earthy flavor to the whole mixture.

The El Camino and The Thriller delighted me in their subtlety. The The Camino featured a chicken mixture in plantain mole sauce that was, admittedly, much lighter than any authentic Mexican mole, but not lacking in flavor. The Thriller was filled with tender and subtly sweet coconut black beans with shards of crispy bacon flecked throughout. (Vegetarians can hold the bacon on The Thriller and still get a thrilling experience, I think.) My partner’s favorite was The Heist, a red chili sweet and sour steak taco that I would describe as tasting somewhat like a Mexican-influenced bulgolgi, with its thin, silky layers of steak. I, however, left with the memory of The Local in my mouth: Who knew how good buttery asparagus and ramps could be in a taco? It was delicious enough to make me think I could give up meat for an afternoon or maybe even a whole day.

The tacos were so good as they were that I hesitated to use the salsas out of fear of muddling my tastes. I dipped first my fork, and then the last bite of each of my tacos into them. The Heist went well with the roasted red salsa; The Local paired well with the rhubarb salsa. I licked my fork and wished I had some crunchy, truck-fried tortilla chips to use as a vehicle for the rest of the salsa. It was that good.

The Good Truck is compact and mobile, so may, in upcoming weeks, depart from its bohemian perch for other locals, so follow them (literally!) on Facebook or Twitter. Weather permitting, The Good Truck keeps the weekend going until Monday with a pit stop at The Westy’s famous trivia night, too.

Hours & locations: Saturday 11-7 & Sunday 11-4 outside The Shop (312 E. Seneca), Monday night at The Westy (516 W. State), more hours and locations TBD
Recommended: The Food
Website: See Facebook or Twitter for up-to-date info!

day twelve: simply red bistro @ la tourelle resort

For a college town, Ithaca doesn’t have a lot of brunch spots. Greasy breakfast diner spots are abundant: Think the State Diner, Lincoln Street Cafe, and Manos, for instance. Likewise, the Ithaca Bakery/Collegetown Bagels franchise has the breakfast sandwich market cornered. But brunch–brunch is a different genre of meal altogether. Brunch is languid. Brunch is amicable. Brunch is decadent. Brunch can be boozy. Brunch is a time for catching up with old friends, for staying at a restaurant too long, for pretending like tomorrow isn’t really Monday yet, somewhere inside, knowing that it is. Brunch is for making Sunday last as long as possible.

For brunch in Ithaca, Cafe Dewitt is my trusted default — unfortunately, it’s everyone else’s, too. The food is great, but the waits can be long, the chairs are uncomfortable and the fish tanks lining the edge of the Dewitt Mall hallway make the feeling of being watched and going around in circles all too literal. Carriage House is delicious, too, and I make the mistake of forgetting about it all too often. I can’t say anything but nice things about Cafe Dewitt and The Carriage House’s food. Yet, there are times, I would, indeed, care for a mimosa or bloody mary with my brunch. I am just that kind of lady. There are places in town where this pairing is indeed possible–the Mahogany Grill, for instance–but the food and the atmosphere just doesn’t say “brunch” to me. Brunch has a certain lightness of being, which I had to drive just a couple of miles from the Commons to find at Simply Red Bistro at La Tourelle Resort.

Driving up to the La Tourelle Resort for the first time is a bit intimidating. The spa is right off 96B on the right hand side past Ithaca College, but you’ll have to go around the unduly expensive and absurdly pretentious John Thomas Steak House* to get to it. Simply Red Bistro is inside La Tourelle and, at first, walking in feels somewhat like crashing a hotel breakfast. If the weather’s nice, I recommend asking for outdoor patio seating, if it’s available. The outdoor area is on a small, quaint, private patio and makes me feel as if I’m dining at someone’s modestly lavish home in the English countryside.** It was drizzling, though, during our last visit to Simply Red, and the inside of the restaurant was full, so we instead dined in the lobby, which, I think, next to the patio, is the second best option. A motley assortment of performers’ posters line the walls: The GZA, Margaret Cho, David Sedaris, and the Squirrel Nut Zippers are all in the row, as in an NPR broadcast. The lobby chairs are extra-comfortable and there’s something about the space that evokes good times with cool moms and grandmoms, the kind of family vacation you actually enjoy.

The service at Simply Red couldn’t be better. We were greeted at the door and, when our host saw that the tables inside were all full, immediately cleaned off a lobby table for us. Water and coffee were delivered promptly and continually and almost surreptitiously refilled. Though we pretty much knew what we wanted to order, we spent some time doing the brunch thing and lackadaisically catching up. Our thoughtful waiter let us know that a large party would be ordering soon, though, and politely asked if we wanted to put our order in before theirs, and we did so happily.

The choice for me was easy: I was going to have Mama Red’s Giant Mexican Burrito. The dish had more ingredients–12–than choices on Simply Red’s menu: Black bean corn salsa, chorizo sausage, scrambled eggs, cheddar cheese, avocado, cilantro, sour cream, mole, escabeche, guava jelly, house potatoes, and the obligatory tortilla shell. I couldn’t believe that all these things would fit in one burrito, and half-expected our waiter to ask what I would specifically like in my burrito. He did not. While I appreciate minimalism in food (see my review of Mercato), Mama Red’s Giant Mexican Burrito was maximalism at its finest.

Look at this burrito. Seriously, just look at it.

It tastes even better than it looks.

Everything in this enormous burrito was perfectly balanced. With many burritos, one might bite into a layer of, say, meat only or cheese only: With Mama Red’s Giant Burrito, this was not the case. What made this burrito unique was its silkiness, the layers of tastes all blended, melded into a cohesive whole. If a burrito could be compared to a fine wine, this burrito was it. With each bite, I could taste all of the different flavors the burrito contained, swirling about in my mouth. The burrito shell held up well in the lagoon of sweet mole and tangy sour cream*** and provided the introduction to each bite. Inside the burrito, the cheese, salsa, eggs, rich, fresh avocado, and chorizo made one surprisingly light and gooey scramble. The chorizo taste repeatedly punctuated my burrito-eating experience, with pangs of savory, spicy texture peppered like commas throughout. (I was not surprised to find out that the chorizo was from Autumn’s Harvest Farm, a regular at the Farmer’s Market, and a personal favorite.) Finally, the cilantro and escabeche on top provided an edible garnish flourish to enjoy at my discretion. The only thing I don’t remember tasting is the guava jelly — perhaps it wasn’t in there?

Though my cross-country days may be long over, I can still manage to put down a distance runner-sized plate of food in any given sitting. That said, Mama Red’s Giant Burrito was too much for me to eat alone. I managed to finish it, but shared a good number of considerably large bites with my friends.

As I am, ostensibly, writing restaurant reviews, I guess I should look at the big picture and discuss my compadres’ dishes as well. They looked pretty, fresh, and good, but, to be honest, I was too engrossed in my burrito jouissance to give their dishes any more thought than that. My partner ordered the truly photogenic Crab and Shrimp Eggs Benedict, which was basically eggs Benedict served over a crab and shrimp risotto cake, fresh, clean but not blissfully noteworthy. My friend ordered the Classic Breakfast which was, in her estimation, pretty much the perfect version of the breakfast of its type: Two local free-range eggs, toast, and sausage. She ordered the eggs over medium as a test for the cooks and found them to indeed be a perfect over medium. But I think they were both, understandably, jealous of my burrito. (Had someone else ordered it instead of me, I would have been jealous, too.) Fortunately, all of our meals were served with Simply Red’s simply amazing potatoes: Salty, crunchy and everything we all want breakfast potatoes to be.

For all that talk about brunch booze, we didn’t, alas, imbibe any this last trip, as the semester was still in session and we had work/grading still to do. But now that it’s officially summer, I’m going to make it a point to splurge for a mimosa, bloody mary, or a grand coffee (coffee, Grand Marnier, Woodford Reserve, whipped cream and an orange slice) some morning. Because I can.

Simply Red Bistro at La Tourelle is open both Saturday and Sunday for brunch, and breakfast and lunch throughout the week. If you’ve got a special guest or day coming up, check out the August Moon Spa or go for a hike on one of the many wooded trails behind La Tourelle. You might just end up burning off the calories from that burrito. If you care to, that is.

* I’m saving my John Thomas rant for a very special later date. But it’s coming, I promise. In the meantime, don’t eat there.

** Authors note: The author has never actually been to the English countryside, let alone a moderately lavish home there, so this comparison may be entirely fanciful.

*** For those of you who know my tastes, sour cream is one of the rare foods which I typically, if possible, avoid. This time, I decided to put aside my reactionary squeamishness to the white stuff and trust the chef. I was glad I did. The sour cream was warm, rich, creamy, smooth and with the right bit of tang.

Price: Classier brunch splurge ($10 – $15)
Recommended: Mama Red’s Giant Mexican Burrito
Hours: Breakfast daily, 7:30 – 10:30am; Lunch, M-F, 11am-2pm; Brunch, Sat-Sun, 11am-2pm
Directions: From the Ithaca Commons, take Aurora Street/96B past Ithaca College. La Tourelle is 1.5 miles past Ithaca College on the right hand side of 96B, behind John Thomas Steakhouse
Website: Simply Red Bistro

weekend wine break: the finger lakes wine center

Before moving to Ithaca, I almost never drank white wine. This choice was born mostly out of youthful ignorance, but also, I realize, out of some abstract and foolish snobbery. Basically, I didn’t think of myself as the kind of person who drank white wine–I was tougher, cooler, more urbane than that, right? No. I was just that foolish.

The Finger Lakes Wine Center is meant to school fools not only like youthful me, but also those other fools who think that Finger Lakes wine, while local, and thus admirable, can’t compete with other better known wine regions of the country and world. The Center, located near the intersection of Cayuga and Clinton Streets, directly across from the downtown Holiday Inn, features a thoughtfully curated selection of the region’s best offerings–red and white both. Stepping inside is like going on a Finger Lakes wine tour with your own personal David Sparrow (of Sparrow’s Fine Wines fame): You’ll save yourself the questionable adventure (and the headache) of trying all the wines the region has to offer and instead be able to focus on the best.

The Wine Center is a non-profit and was designed to showcase and educate visitors and locals about Finger Lakes wines. In conversation with one of the board members, I also learned that another impetus behind its founding was to elevate the quality of wine across the region as a whole and to connect award-winning winemakers with one another to share marketing and resources. The primary way the FWLC operates is as a wine and gift shop and in this capacity is open from noon-7pm, Tuesday – Saturday in the Spring (perfect for grabbing a last-minute gift for a birthday or other occasion before heading to dinner on the Commons). Thursday nights the wine bar is open from 6:30 – 8:30 for sampling a rotating selection of quality Finger Lakes wines.

This weekend, though, I had the chance to experience the FWLC in a different capacity–the Center was hosting a celebration of the premiere issue of the wine issue of Edible Finger Lakes, as a fundraiser for the Finger Lakes Culinary Bounty. The FLCB is, basically, to food what the FWLC is to wine. It connects chefs, farmers and other culinary artisans to share resources, promote food tourism, and serve as a network for the locavore movement.

And what a network it was. The evening brought a diversity of local food people together–chefs, restaurant owners, vintners, chocolatiers, purveyors of all things delicious and imbibable and the gourmands who consume and imbibe that which they purvey. We were welcomed at the door with a perky glass of Lamoreaux Landing sparkling white.

one of the many plates of hors d'oeuvres I consumed in my quest to learn to spell 'hors d'oeuvres'

The bustling crowd of well-dressed people, the multiple tables of spreads and dips and cheese, and the trays of hors d’oeuvres being passed all overwhelmed my newbie journalistic mind. No longer was I in an objective state, one where I could take pictures and clear-cut notes, but rather a state of pure sensation. (Noting the lack of descriptions or labels on any of the foods around me, I wondered if the induction of this sensory effect was in any way intentional…)

When I came back to my more grounded state of being (some five kinds of cheese, a steak brioche, a vegetable tart, and many, many more types of reception food later), it was time for dessert. I popped a glazed fig in my mouth with the last sip of my sparkling wine and was delighted to discover just how well these two tastes went together. The sparkling wine gave the fig a sense of lightness, whereas the taste of the fig added to the wine’s grapy complexity. It was time for some ice cream.

The three flavors of ice cream I had from the Cayuga Lake Creamery cart were each amazing in their own unique way. One flavor was made from a peach liquor; it coupled the light, tart sweetness of sorbet with the milky richness of ice cream. The merlot flavor captured, as much as any ice cream could be said to be capable of doing so, the dryness of the wine with the complexity of berry, and, as an extra treat, was flecked with pieces of dark chocolate that complemented these tastes. The lavender flavor, however, was, as my partner Jacob described it, “the most special ice cream ever.” It tasted like just like it smelled, like a field of lavender, flowering delicately through my mouth. The flavor was subtle yet lingered brilliantly, persistently. The flavor melded so well with the ice cream that I imagined that the cow from whose milk the dessert was made must have grazed on lavender, too.

a sampler of Cayuga Lake Creamery's ice cream -- has a plastic cup ever looked so classy?

I used my ticket for a free glass of wine on one of my favorite local pinot noirs from Bloomer Creek. I have so many good things to say about Bloomer Creek that I’ll have to save a full review of the winery for a separate post. But, in short, Winemaker Kim Engle is a true artisan and allows the unique terroir of the region to flourish in his creations. His red wines highlight rather than try to change or hide the regional grapes, and Bloomer Creek’s pinot is a fine example of what a Finger Lakes red can be. It is balanced, silky, and smooth, with subtle spicy hints. I paired my glass with a smattering of tiny, intense, wonderful chocolates from Lucienne’s, who also provided an amazing parting gift of wine-filled truffles.

Thanks, Lucienne!

Overall, it was an interesting and inspiring evening, save for a very unfortunate mishap called bacon chocolate cheesecake. I–a great proponent of the idea of bacon desserts–bit into this mishap with great vigor, only to continue to regret it for hours later. In the interest of ending this post on an upbeat and charitable note, like the event itself, I’ll save you the gory details (but would be happy to share if you happen to ask me in person).

Amazingly, this whole experience cost only $20 and I left feeling like the Finger Lakes community had given me far more than that in return. Chef Stephanie Izzo of Simply Red Bistro (whose location at La Tourelle Resort I’ll be reviewing next!) provided all the savory appetizers, spreads, vegetables and hors d’oeuvres and, with everyone else involved, made it an Ithaca evening to remember.

Typical wine bar nights feature 25+ local wines by the glass and a smattering of local flights to taste. The Wine Center also offers classes on an ongoing basis. Enjoy the latest offerings from Bloomer Creek or Keuka Lake Vineyards as well as classics from Finger Lakes mainstays such as Hermann J. Wiemer and Dr. Konstantin Frank.

Website: Finger Lakes Wine Center or, for up-to-date information, join the mailing list by emailing info@fingerlakeswinecenter.org.

day five: mexeo

Yesterday, someone asked me which restaurant had the best Mexican food in Ithaca. Mexeo, I replied, unequivocally, and headed there today to remind myself why.

Being the best Mexican restaurant in Ithaca wouldn’t be all too impressive in itself, considering that the competition is, well, Viva Barferia, Chili’s 10,000 Calorie Heart Attack Extravaganza, Garcia’s Totally Reasonable but Wholly Unimpressive Mexican Cuisine, and a large number of burrito-only joints.* So, I’ll up the ante a bit and venture to say that Mexeo tastes more like Texas or Los Angeles than Ithaca, New York.

What’s incredible, though, is that the food, in fact, couldn’t be more Ithaca, more New York: All of it–the veggies, meats, beans, soy, and even the canola oil–comes from farms within 100 miles of the restaurant. Mexeo proves that being a locavore doesn’t have to mean resigning oneself to a month of kale and salad with kale chips on the side and kale pie for dessert. Most everything here is incredibly delicious.

where the food's from

My colleagues, big burrito aficionados, had not heard of Mexeo, so, in the spirit of getting a variety of taquitos to sample and photograph, I ordered the three of us a sampling of chef/owner/front man/”Mexeo Man” Sebastian Villa’s offerings. Sebastian keeps his menu simple, which I appreciate. On any given day customers can choose from five standard taquitos plus daily specials offered based upon availability. In all, I ordered four of the five standard offerings–carne asada, carne guisada, al pastor, and veggie chorizo–plus one of the two specials, the corazon. (The other special, pork mole, I can describe from memory.)

For the uninitiated, Mexeo provides a quick guide to ordering at the counter. “2 taquitos,” the sign reads, “are sufficient for one person.” This is completely true and delightfully affordable, with each hearty taquito weighing in at a sensible tres dolares. As a reviewer, though, I felt such a noble pang to go beyond the call of duty and today ordered three. The al pastor and the corazon I had both enjoyed in previous visits; the veggie chorizo I ordered to see how it held up to the carnivorous fare.

the menu, with instructions

The flour tortillas that wrap each taquito are served warm, heated on the griddle until just lightly blackened on the outside. The al pastor filling is just the right kind of spicy, a rounded sort of spicy heat that fills the mouth rather than attacking specific portions of it. Its texture and flavors have the complex, subtle taste of patience, the softness of the meat a product, I imagine, of having been slow-cooked overnight.

I ❤ corazon

While corazon/heart meat sounds like a daring thing to consume, the taco itself is not. I’ve never had corazon anywhere but Mexeo, so I’d be interested in finding something else to which to compare this taquito. The meat has an internal richness, density without toughness, and is flavorful and delicious. Sebastian lets the corazon–which I would have never guessed, had I not been told, was organ meat–stand almost on its own, accenting it only with the most minimal of chopped onions and cilantro. I applaud this decision by purchasing the corazon taquito any time I see it on the menu.

A bite into the veggie chorizo taco made me feel sorry for vegetarians–they were, alas, missing out on the full spectrum of deliciousness offered by this place. This taquito was just okay. The tofu, while lightly spiced to invoke the idea of chorizo, was slightly too far away from chorizo’s actuality, and could have benefited from a more liberal application of said spices. The potatoes in the veggie chorizo taquito provided a nice textural contrast to the fluffy tofu, however, could also have used additional spicing.

Two taquitos I did not consume myself on this visit, but have had in the past and would recommend are the carne asada taquito and the pork mole taquito. The carne asada is similar in preparation to the corazon, yet prepared with steak, and the pork mole is Mexican comfort food at its best. Warm, thick, textured, chunky and smothering, it tastes like love, made with love.

I’ve been so fixated on Mexeo’s taquitos that I haven’t had a chance to try the “otros,” the motley collection of soup/posole, chili, and Frito pie. Those all sound to me like great cold weather dishes, for sure.

Since Mexeo seems to be basically a one-man shop, its hours are subject to change. For the full range of menu selections, be sure to arrive early, as certain menu items do sell out. To avoid a frowny face of disappointment, check Mexeo’s Facebook page for up-to-date information.

* I’ll review burrito-only joints later this month. There are, admittedly, a few good ones.

Price: Student-friendly (< $9)
Hours: Currently, M-W-F, 11-3; T-Th, 11-8; Sun 12-4; Closed Saturday
Recommended: Taquitos al pastor & carne asada, specialty taquitos when available
Website: Mexeo

day one: the piggery cafe

I have long been a fan of The Piggery farm’s thick-cut pork chops, homemade sausages, and wide assortment of porcine delights such as lard, pate and charcuterie. I couldn’t have been happier, then, when I heard the owners had opened up a storefront and restaurant.

But, where was it? I had heard it was located in the same lot as Red Feet Winery, off Route 13 and across from the Farmers’ Market, but saw no trace of The Piggery as I pulled into the parking lot. The “Drive-Thru Coffee” sign enticed me, though: Post-Slope Day and nursing a cold, I needed all the caffeination I could get. I pulled around and, voila!, drive-thru pork…and coffee. An addicted carnivore’s dream come true.

The line at the drive-thru window was long, so we went inside. The layout of the tiny storefront reminded me of some of my favorite New Orleans delis, yet with a Brooklyn attitude. The place was hopping, and the staff all seemed to be doing triple duty: Waiting on customers, preparing the food, and managing the meat counter. As I snaked around in the line, I ogled pig parts quotidian and exotic, from pork chops, tenderloin and boston butt to rib tips and pickled hearts.

I decided on a kind of mini-tasting platter called “The Three Little Pigs,” which included a pulled pork slider, a pig (hot) dog, & a carnitas taco. The thing about The Piggery’s meats is this: You don’t need to do much to them to make them delicious. Yet, the toppings and acoutrements The Piggery Cafe added to elevated and showcased their piggy mastery. Each bite was perfectly sized and full of flavor.

Best drive-thru food, ever.

About the three little pigs: The carnitas taco is a mini-sized version of one of The Piggery Cafe’s main menu items, the carnitas burrito. The tender, shredded pork is held inside a warm, soft (possible homemade) tortilla and topped with a complex salsa. The pulled pork slider is a smaller version of the pulled pork sandwich: Spicy pork topped with a contrasting, cooling, crunchy and tangy cole slaw. As good as these two dishes were, though, the minimalist pig dog stole the show. Its texture was perfect, with a barely taut exterior encasing the silken and savory pork. Yes, the pig dog exists in some liminal world between hot dog and pate that I previously knew not existed.

If you arrive at The Piggery Cafe at a busy time, expect some menu revisions (while I waited, the cafe sold out or ran out of a number of items) and delays, but know that the end result is well-worth it. Or, while you wait, have a cup of artisinally-roasted Indigo Coffee. It’s great, too.

Price: Student-friendly (< $9)
Hours: M-F, 7am – 7pm & Sat-Sun, 8am – 3pm
Recommended: The Three Little Pigs, Italian Combo Panini
Website: The Piggery!